You’re in Good Hands with Patrick Garelle. Next is a condensation of the chapter on curly hair’s haircutting program written by Patrick. This section is part of the orthocouralogy general knowledge program. It is a unique approach not taught nor printed in text books or similar publication for instructional purposes, in any traditional or untraditional schools of cosmetology. Some terms and expressions are delivered here with their definitions,©.
“A CURL: A curl is a full loop (360 degrees) formed by at list a hair strand or a group of hair strands.”
A hair-spiral is formed of at list two curls (720 degrees). “Spiral and hair-spiral” “ critical hair-spiral point or length are defined as well.
The “critical curling point or length”: That point or length at which a known curly hair in a known environment will not curl due to being pulled straight by his own weight, or to the point it will not form a curl.
The “curling point or length”: That point or length a known curly hair, in a known environment, will be long enough to form a curl.
On Patrick Garelle’s method for cutting curly hair
“It is imperative that before cutting curly hair, a person’s hair mass should be well understood – -the hair’s/hair-mass physical aspects, its dynamics/action and reaction upon haircutting.” – Patrick Garelle
People with curly hair are usually very sensitive about it and usually nervous about getting their hair cut or trimmed.
Oftentimes, curly hair is misunderstood and seen as a complicated, unruly, difficult to control and difficult to cut.
Curly hair responds to the haircut, but not necessarily in proportion to the amount being cut. Most of the time, the magnitude of retraction will be more than the length being cut, therefore not proportional to the quantity of hair being removed.
When combined with its own physical and chemical properties, as well as outside elements, a curly hair-mass will have a reaction, different than in standard climatic conditions. For example, a humid climate will increase the rate of curl as well as reduce its apparent length, the opposite in a dryer, less humid climate.
Curly hair, in general, should be cut with as much attention and preciseness than as any other hair-mass.
The systems and procedures principals of Orthocouralogy are highly recommended to be learned for cutting curly hair, and it is a misconception to think that curly hair does not deserve or is impossible to cut at a high level of precision.
Before the cut, the curve or curl rate should be assessed as part of the initial client’s hair-mass consultation. It is important to have a clear understanding of what could happen to a person’s hair after any change, or could happen in the future while growing.
Evaluating or estimating the rate of retraction is very important if we do want any surprises! Not to mention yet any mistakes that could be inflicted from poor professionalism.
One simple example could be the differential retraction of a curly hair-mass that has been cut in a horizontal blunt fashion and when dry, will naturally show a greater retraction rate in the front section than at the back area. Even a true blunt cut could have been given; the final result could be as if a slanted haircut was given. Curly hair often shows an important length differential between two areas even when the areas have been cut on the same bases. Because of its weight, curly or wavy hair could be more or less curly or more or less wavy.
In fact, curly hair could become wavy when reaching a certain length, and even relatively straight when reaching a longer length. It is not unusual for some clients and hairstylists to mistake true curly hair for straight or slightly wavy hair if they do not detect its capacity to curl under different condition.
I assess curly hair based on the following seven characteristics:
(2): Texture (Is the hair soft or hard brittle?
(3): Flexibility (4): Elasticity
(5): Stabilities (static and dynamic)
(6): Whether in given environment
The use of products, such as gels, is from my point of viewed considered as accessories to a haircut. The cut itself must stand as the most important foundation; gels and products can enhance or create a slightly different look.
Knowing how to manipulate curly hair is important. It is more important, however, to give the best haircut possible in order to get that best curl. In order to do this, other considerations, such as the shape of the face, body proportion and life style, are important part of the equation when figuring out the optimal haircut.
I believe that the shape of the cut is the most important consideration when dealing with curly hair. Ultimately, the shape of the cut, including its infrastructure will remain, even if the quality of the curl is not perfect or disorganized.
As a hair specialist, this information and knowledge is critical for precise haircutting, and creating a haircut that bring out the best in you – your face, body, lifestyle and, of course, show off your hair’s natural beauty!
copyright © 2006 Patrick Garelle international corp : the Orthocouralogy